Europe Bans Gel Nail Polish Ingredient Over Safety Concerns, U.S. Yet to Act
A chemical widely used in gel nail polishes across the globe has been banned in Europe, sparking debate in the beauty industry and raising questions about U.S. regulatory standards.
The ingredient, trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide (TPO), is commonly used as a photoinitiator, a substance that helps nail gels cure quickly under UV lamps while maintaining long-lasting shine. However, the European Union officially prohibited TPO in all cosmetic products, citing concerns over its potential toxicity.
Reason For This Action
Studies on animals suggest that prolonged exposure to TPO could cause long-term fertility issues. While conclusive evidence in humans remains limited, EU regulators adopted a precautionary approach, removing the chemical from cosmetics to minimize health risks.
The ban applies not only across the 27 EU member states but also in countries aligned with EU cosmetic regulations, such as Norway and Switzerland. Nail salons in these regions must now dispose of existing stock, while manufacturers are reformulating gel products to eliminate TPO.
Industry experts argue that Europe’s decision, even without fully settled science, reflects the region’s “safety-first” philosophy toward consumer products.
The U.S. Stance: A Regulatory Gap
Across the Atlantic, the U.S. has taken no regulatory action against TPO. Europe continues to restrict several chemicals that remain legal in American cosmetics and food products, reflecting a broader regulatory trend.
Without U.S. restrictions, consumers can still buy and use TPO-based gel polishes. However, American nail brands that also sell in Europe may choose to align with EU standards by reformulating products globally, rather than producing separate versions for different markets.
Such a shift could indirectly reshape the U.S. nail industry, even without formal regulation.
Industry Divided Over the Ban
European regulators see the decision as a necessary safeguard, but the nail industry remains divided. Some argue that alternatives to TPO exist and can achieve the same results without risk.
Francesca Rapolla, from the UK’s Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Association (CPTA), explained that the industry failed to secure an exemption because it could not prove TPO was irreplaceable. “In this case, the industry did not, and could not, defend the continued use of TPO in nail products,” she said.
Others strongly oppose the ruling. California-based consultant Doug Schoon criticized the EU’s move, calling it an “unscientifically justified decision” that could cause unnecessary economic harm. Similarly, Belgian wholesaler ASAP Nails and Beauty Supply launched a protest website, claiming the ban would damage small businesses and was based on “no human evidence of danger.”
The Reality for Consumers and Businesses
For European consumers, the change will likely mean new formulas hitting the shelves soon, as beauty brands rush to reformulate. For U.S. customers, the short-term impact is minimal. TPO products remain available.
Yet, global beauty brands may preemptively remove TPO worldwide to avoid logistical challenges, ensuring consistent production lines. If that happens, American salons and consumers may also see reformulated products enter the market, regardless of U.S. regulatory decisions.
Some experts believe the EU ruling could push U.S. regulators or individual states to revisit the safety of TPO, especially if public awareness grows.
A Turning Point for Nail Cosmetics?
The debate highlights a broader divide in consumer protection policies. Europe often enforces stricter regulations based on potential risks, while the U.S. typically waits for definitive scientific proof.
Time will tell whether the TPO ban marks a true turning point in nail cosmetics or simply highlights a regional regulatory difference. But one thing is certain: the decision has already set off ripples across the global beauty industry, and the aftershocks may soon reach American salons.
Bonus Read: Jaden Smith Named Men’s Creative Director at Christian Louboutin
